Just over 16 km from Nice airport and 20 km from Antibes, Vence sits on a 60-feet rocky outcrop nestled in the hills overlooking the Mediterranean sea, Cap d’Antibes, the Alps and the Estérel Mountains. It benefits from a mild climate throughout the winter months as the town faces due south and is protected by two stunning cliffs, Baou des Blancs and Baou des Noirs, (Baou is a provençal word meaning “rocky spur”).

It is bordered by the towns of Saint-Paul de Vence, la Colle-sur-Loup, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, Courmes, Coursegoules, Bézaudun-les-Alpes, Saint-Jeannet and la Gaude. The commune of Vence stretches across 3,923 hectares of which 500 hectares consists of forest and 2000 hectares dry, almost prairie-like, landscape and home to over 17,000 inhabitants, called Vençois.

This charming town is made even more attractive by its flowered squares, numerous hanging baskets, large earthenware tubs overflowing with colourful plants, and its amazing number of trees. In fact, although this town is normally called “The City of Art”, we would be tempted to call it the “City of Trees”.

Vence has been carefully landscaped with a remarkable number of tree varieties ranging from Lime, Oak, Nettle, Palm, Carob, Persimmon, and Jujube to Olive, Plane and Judas trees to name just a few. The Tourist Office produces both English and French leaflets containing a description (and photos) of all the different tree varieties. It also has a map with a signposted walk for those of you who would like to find them.

But the most historical and illustrious of them all is the enormous Ash tree located Place du Frêne close to Porte du Peyra. It was planted to mark the visit of King François I (1494-1547) and Pope Paul III, during the drawing up of the Trêve de Nice (Truce of Nice) in 1538 – and is reputed to be over 465 years old.

Another notable attraction of Vence is its water and, as such, the town could almost be listed as a spa. From its origins in the Lubiane valley, the “Foux” water is channelled to various stone built fountains dotted around the town where it is freely available to the villagers. It is renowned for its diuretic and cleansing effect.

During our first visit to Vence we noticed quite a few people filling up their plastic bottles and earthenware jugs with water. We came armed the next time and filled up our flask. Its taste is clean, fresh and surprisingly good and reminded us of Evian mineral water.

Vence is a careful blend of the new and the old, with the old town maintaining its walled circle of medieval buildings, as it must have appeared hundreds of years ago. Five medieval gateways give entry into the walled city: Porte d’Orient, Porte du Portail Levis, Porte du Peyra, Porte du Pontis and Porte du Signadour.

A little bit of history
The town of Vence has been rich in history ever since the Nerusii, a celto-ligurian people established themselves there. Marked by Latin civilisation, Vence then became a bishopric until the Concordat. Numerous churches and chapels bear witness to the long Catholic tradition of the town. But there is also a very strong Knights Templar (a military and religious order founded in Jerusalem in 1118 during the Crusades) legacy, and this is never more noticeable than when driving up to the Col de Vence, along avenue des Templiers and discovering the amazing Château du Domaine St Martin.

Originally a Roman stronghold, Saint Martin, then Bishop of Tours, visited the site in 350 AD. The site was later named after him and a small chapel erected. 765 years later, in 1115, the Count of Provence handed over the estate to the Crusaders returning from Jerusalem. So it was that in 1118, monks of the Order of the Knights Templars came and settled in Vence and built their “commanderie” on this very estate. The vantage point is not just awe-inspiring but must have been quite invincible in their day. The Château, now a magnificent luxury hotel, sits in 32,5 acres of beautiful parkland and rolling hillside.

Alexandre Farnèse, Bishop of Vence, became Pope Paul III, in 1507. He served as mediator between King Francois I and Charles V on the occasion of the treaty of Nice in 1538.

In 1911, the town hall was built on the site of the former bishop’s palace. The Château des Villeneuve was bought by Emile Hugues, Mayor of Vence (1945-1959), then Keeper of the Seals, who donated it to the town of Vence in 1966. It is now home to some outstanding exhibitions devoted to 20th century art.

The cathedral, originally built in the IV century on the foundations of a Roman temple, took its present form in the XIII century. It has many treasures, among which a unique set of 49 statues in polychrome wood, (this term is usually used to describe sculptural or decorative objects finished or decorated with paint or glaze) and a remarkable mosaic by Chagall “Moses Saved from the Waters” which the artist did for the cathedral in 1979.

Artist & Writers
Vence's unique position, incredible light and wonderful climate has also been a magnet to a series of painters, sculptors and writers; Dufy, Matisse, Chagall, Dubuffet, Carzou, Arman, and Anthony Mars have all been part of the Vence scene. The town is full of galleries and other samples of their work, with sculptures, decorated buildings and frequent (summertime) outdoor exhibits.

A 5-10 minute walk from the centre of town across the bridge over “Le Foux” river, brings you to the Chapelle du Rosaire now known as the Chapelle Matisse (click here to read more), while just a short walk from there is "Villa Le Reve" the pretty villa where Matisse stayed  from June 1934 until 1948. The Henri Matisse Cultural Centre can be found inside an ancient olive oil mill located “descente des Moulins”.

In 1930, the author D. H. Lawrence spent his last days in Vence, and was buried there (click here to read more). His remains were exhumed in March 1935 and incinerated at Marseille on March 13.

Every morning local producers bring their products to the Place du Grand Jardin, and on Tuesday and Fridays to Places Surian, Godeau and Clémenceau. An antiques market is held on Place de Grand Jardin every Wednesday.

The town offers a wide choice of restaurants, where all cuisines are represented; several Asian restaurants coexist alongside French and Italian ones. Fine weather has many restaurants offering eating arrangements outside and menus are both interesting and affordable.

In July and August, Vence hosts “Les Nuits du Sud” - open air concerts on Friday and Saturday nights and held in the main square.

If you liked Eze and Tourrettes-sur-Loup, you’ll love Vence. Normal life and tourists blend easily together. Although in some ways a perched village, the old town itself is flat and nearly all pedestrian. It has none of the steep narrow streets so much associated with other perched villages.

We especially liked the open, leafy squares where art galleries, Provençal boutiques and charming restaurants rubbed shoulders together.

Parking is relatively easy as there is a choice of eight parkings, however Parking Saint Anne, located outside of town on Route de Saint Paul, is only open during the summer for Park & Ride.