This has been an interesting town to discover as it’s the only place we know that can change so dramatically. While all the other towns and villages along the French Riviera hold constant throughout the year, Cannes has an extraordinary way of transforming itself depending upon the festivals, congresess, regattas or galas that it is hosting.

Despite our numerous visits, it has also taken us longer to appreciate this sea-side resort while Antibes, Eze, Golfe-Juan, Villefranche-sur-Mer and Mougins found an immediate soft-spot in our hearts.

Removing the hype and glitzy apparel that covers it during the Cannes Film Festival in May and the numerous other events it hosts during the year, Cannes holds an historic presence which can be very easily overlooked. It is past master at combining opposites: the old and new, the luxurious and the modern, the town and nature.

Living as we do on the Côte d’Azur, we have been blessed with the opportunity of visiting perched villages and sea-side resorts throughout the year. This has given us a unique insight and perspective into these lovely places which can be so easily forgotten during the congested tourist season.

Exploring Cannes
We like to start down by Quai St Pierre which is really the old port of Cannes and spend a little time admiring the yachts and “pointus”, the traditional fishing-boats moored alongside. For us, this port and adjoining Suquet quarter are the most picturesque and favourite places to visit.

Just between Quai St Pierre and Boulevard Jean Hibert is a charming, but very small, square (Esplanade Maréchal Leclerc). Surrounded by tall, lush palm trees, are several memorials to the Cannois marines fallen for France during the Naval Battle (Barfleur La Houge) of 1692. There is also a huge and somewhat impressive anchor, placed on top of another tomb, to honour other brave marines who have died for France.

As in so many other fishing ports, you’ll find a selection of pretty restaurants and sunny terraces lining the harbour and which also overflow into the narrow streets of the old town of Cannes.

If we’re early (ie before mid day) we’ll stroll up towards the impressive Hotel de Ville and pop into Marché Forville. This is a covered provençal market and fun to visit. It’s a great way of discovering local produce which is brought in fresh every day, as well as immersing yourself in the hustle and bustle of traditional French life.

The French are very particular about their food, and although they may well do their weekly shop in supermarkets, they still prefer to go to their local market for fresh produce whenever possible. Open daily, Marché Forville has the most amazing choice of fresh fruit and vegetables, wild mushrooms, locally caught fish, and home-made goats cheeses.

From there we like to walk up the steep rue Mont-Chevalier to the top of Le Suquet called Place de la Castre where a few sections of fortified wall still stand. From there we enjoy the spectacular views overlooking the Gulf of La Napoule, Estérel Mountains to the Iles de Lérins, the town of Cannes, its bay and inland towards Grasse.

The first time we walked up I must admit to stopping halfway so we could “catch our breath”. Yet, it couldn’t have been more fortuitous. As I stood there panting and wondering how I'd come so out of shape - I found that I'd stopped in front of a large wooden arched door, almost fortress in style. At the top of the door someone had bolted a metal mask, the size of a human head and above that was situated a square window protected by a grill.

It is hard to describe my  impression as I stood there, but it was one of distinct foreboding. The mask itself generated much to my “frisson” although the heavy wooden door emphasized the feeling of alienation. Of all the sites we’ve visited along the French Riviera, I can honestly say that, todate, this door and mask is the only place where I’ve felt uncomfortable and troubled.  Still rather out of breath I decided it was better to move on rather than linger at this spot.

Needless to say, I returned the first opportunity I had as the mask had left an undeniable reaction on me. Once again I stood in front of the imposing wooden door - and this time noticed a large stone engraving positioned on the adjoining wall.

This strange place was called “Tour du Masque” (The Tower of the Mask) and dated back to the 12th century. Translated, the French text basically explains that the Tour du Masque was built as a watchtower for the Citadel, defended throughout the centuries by the gallant Suquetanes militiamen against Barbarians. The Man in the Iron Mask would have escaped from Ile Saint-Marguerite and taken refuge (the prisoner in the Bastille being only an unfortunate stooge). In circumstances that still remain mysterious, he died after a long period of contemplation and prayer, having forgiven his torturers.

It went on to say that passerbys should pause in their journey and meditate on the sufferences of this victim of torture whose ghost, on certain nights, haunts this site. For those of you unfamiliar with the story of “The Man in the Iron Mask”, it was written by the French novelist Alexandre Dumas (1802-1870). He also wrote “The Three Musketeers” and “The Count of Monte Cristo”.

Continuing our walk up to the top of Le Suquet hill, we come to the Musée de la Castre which is housed in an old 12th century castle which once belonged to the monks of the Isles de Lérins as did the church of Notre-Dame d’Espérance, which dates from the 17th century and was built to guard against Saracen attack. The views from here are stunning and well worth the somewhat steep climb to get there. After taking in the marvellous panorama we then slowly walk down, going through a small but charming public garden as we do so.

Depending on our mood, we either stroll along La Pantiero which runs parallel to Cannes’ sandy beach and which merges with La Croisette, or walk along Boulevard de la Croisette which has all the high-class boutiques selling haute couture and jewellery: Christian Lacroix, Hermès, Chanel to name just a few.

More often than not we walk along La Croisette passing Place Cornut where the local artists come and display their work and groups of ardent “Boullists” come to play Pétanque. If it’s close to lunchtime and we’re feeling peckish, we’ll buy a baguette or sandwich at a local vendor on the Esplanade Georges Pompidou, and then find ourselves either a bench or a seat (offered freely by the municipality of Cannes) along La Croisette to enjoy our meal and the incredible views of the bay.

The Little Cross
We love uncovering little stories while researching details about our chosen town - and apart from our discovery of The Man in the Iron Mask, we also came upon one about La Croisette and how it got its name. At the beginning of the 19th century, there existed on the outskirts of Cannes a soap factory. You could only reach it by taking a rather horrid narrow track littered with rubbish and other nasty, smelly items. In the middle of this track was a small cross - so everybody called the path: The Track of the Tiny Cross”.

Time passed and the little track grew wider, a few trees where planted and the inhabitants of Cannes soon got into the habit of strolling along it. In May 1838, under pressure by Lord Brougham, work commenced in creating a new port (to permit his high-ranking friends to moor their large yachts). The local council took the opportunity to change the track’s name to “Promenade de la Croisette” in memory of the little cross that no longer existed.

Today it is simply known as La Croisette. Starting at the Renaldo-Hahn Gardens, after the municipal casino and opposite the church of Notre-Dame-du-Bon-Voyage, on the site where Napoleon camped out on the night of 1st March 1815, it ends at the Palm Beach peninsula, site of one of the most celebrated casinos on the Côte d’Azur, which was built in 1929.

This very pretty avenue is today lined with massive palm trees (planted in 1871), interspersed with colourful flower-beds. Facing the sea, impressive hotels such as The Majestic- Barrière (previously called Beau Rivage and opened in 1863 until rebuilt in 1926 in Art Deco style); the Carlton with its noble architecture and legendary domes (opened in 1912), the Martinez (opened in 1929) and Noga Hilton (inaugurated in 1992) built on the site of the former Palais des Festivals and the most recent of Cannes’ luxury hotels line the avenue.

Located also on La Croisette is La Malmaison once formerly part of the “Grand Hotel”. It was used after the war for the first exhibitions organised by Aimé Maeght. While the second floor houses some municipal services, the ground floor is given over to the Modern Art Museum as well as temporary exhibitions devoted to works by leading contemporary artists.

Talking about Lord Brougham, it is perhaps time to write about Cannes’ history and how this once small sleepy fishing village became another jewel in the Côte d’Azur’s crown.

History of Cannes
The first civilization dates back to the 2nd century when Cannes was a Ligurian outpost inhabited by the Oxybian tribe. It seems they settled on the promontory (Le Suquet) where they erected a fortified oppidum. From this belvedere they could observe other members of their tribe who had fortified their position on the rocky eminence on the Isle de Sainte-Marguerite where Fort Vauban now stands.

Such strategic assets did not go unnoticed by the Romans who, while rushing to help the Greek colony is Antibes in 154 BC, took advantage of settling in the region whilst taking over the Isle de Lérins and Cannes as they went along.

However, the Roman reign came to an end with invaders such as the Visigoths, Saracens and other mauranders. Then, in ca. 950, Count Guillaume of Provence swept across the region and ousted them. But, in doing so, much was destroyed and buildings needed to be rebuilt. This is why the Count of Provence built (or re-built) a castle on the ridge of Le Suquet, which he entrusted to a lord named Marcelin (the first inhabitant of Cannes whose name is known in history); it was called Castellum Marcellini, Marcelin’s castle.

To reward the feudal lords who had helped him expel the Saracens, the Count of Provence gave Rodoard, the head of a powerful local family at the origins of the House of Grasse, the rights to Antibes and the region, including Cannes. Later, in 1131, the Count of Provence confirmed the donation of Cannes to the Abbey and the Pope himself sealed this confirmation.

That is when the elements essential for the construction of a true feudal settlement were set up on this maritime site; castle, settlement, hospital, church (Notre-Dame du Puy, which, after Notre-Dame de l’Espérance was built became Chapelle Sainte-Anne, now part of Musée de la Castre). It was a castrum, meaning a fortified village, grouped around its castle (today’s Place de la Castre): in 1178, there is mention of Castrum Francum.

Cannes was now able to resume its life and the people went back to work. That is, until the death of Queen Joan of Naples (1382) and the devastating struggles for her succession. This caused an upset in the balance of power in the region n 1388, when the House of Savoy took over the easternmost part of Provence, later to become the Comté de Nice, bordered to the west by the Var River.

Cannes had the uncomfortable privilege of being a border town, and bore the brunt of the first hostile encounters both by land and by sea in the conflicts between the great powers. In 1481, Provence became part of the Kingdom of France “like one principality with another principality”. Cannes remained, however, on the front line, as vulnerable as ever in the face of international powers struggling for control.

Years of war and strife were to follow, culminating in the French Revolution. Although it did not wreak too much havoc in Cannes, it did put a strain on the budget of the commune. In Cannes, as elsewhere in France, the clergy’s possessions were also sold at auction.

On March 1, 1815, the people of Cannes (who tended to be Royalist) were shocked to learn that Napoleon had escaped from the Isle of Elba and landed at Golfe-Juan with the intention of setting up camp in Cannes. Preceded by Cambronne, the Emperor requested several thousand rations in order to put out false rumours as to the size of his force. He camped outside the town, among the dunes which then surrounded the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Voyage, before marching on Grasse.

After surviving Napoleon, Cannes, like the rest of Europe, then suffered a serious cholera epidemic in 1834. In Nice (which belonged at the time to the Kingdom of Sardinia Piedmont) all travellers were prevented from crossing the border from France; separated in those times by the Var River.

And now the destiny of Cannes was about to change forever as the former Lord Chancellor of Great Britain, Lord Brougham and his daughter Eleanor arrived on their way to winter in Nice. Forced to turn back as they were not allowed to cross the river, Lord Brougham stopped in Cannes at Auberge Pinchinat (which once accommodated Victor Hugo and Pope Pius VIIth), and still stands today.

Lord Brougham fell in love with Cannes and within a week had bought a plot of land to the west of Le Suquet and had made arrangements for the construction of his villa (today converted into flats). He returned every winter for 34 years until his death in 1868, gradually bringing with him the whole of the English aristocracy. His statue can be found on Square Brougham - tucked between a MacDonalds’ and the Palm Square restaurant.

On 10 April 1863 the railway station opened, a staggering sign of progress that placed Paris within 22 hours and 20 minutes of Cannes. The village became a city and expanded westward to the district of La Bocca. Its population rose from 3,000 inhabitants in 1814 to 30,000 in 1914 to reach 72,400 today. However this literally doubles, if not triples, during the Cannes Film Festival and the summer season.

World War I put a stop to this growth as hotels were converted into hospitals. When peace returned, the winter resort of Cannes became a summer seaside resort thanks to the fashion of sea bathing and sun bathing (eg. topless) on the beach although today’s present sandy beaches are actually artificial and were created in 1963.

As you can imagine, there is still much to uncover about Cannes and we look forward to sharing our discoveries with you. Besides, the elusive Man in the Iron Mask intrigues me and I can’t resist finding out more. One day, I’m going to have to knock on that fore-boding fortress door . . .

Note: Since first writing this article in June 2006, I have indeed found out more about this strange door and you can read my discoveries by clicking here.