It is through the kind intervention of our contributor, Martin Hills, who assisted in the research of several Provençal case histories, that we are able to present another extract from Joe Laredo’s recent book “Making a Living in France” published by Survival Books.

Our first feature concerns Ewan Scutcher who took the decision to run a high quality restaurant in Port Grimaud. Our second one features Gordon Taylor, who became “Mr Fix-It” and now manages 30 mobile-homes in Roquebrune-sur-Argens.

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At one time, French people would probably have laughed at the idea of a British couple running a high quality restaurant in France, but Ewan Scutcher, who, with his wife Caroline, runs La Table du Mareyeur at Port Grimaud, along the coast from St Tropez in the Var, says he has never felt any prejudice in that sense – ‘or at least it never came to our attention. The gastronomic reputation of England has changed dramatically over recent years and I would say that England, and even the US, are on a par with many European countries.’

The Scutchers have been a long-standing and successful team, having worked together in Caroline’s family’s travel firm in Brighton, East Sussex, and studied together at the Lausanne Hotel Management School in Switzerland, before starting their present operation in 1989. The Lausanne course, divided equally between study on campus and practical experience in the field, led to diplomas that are widely recognised internationally. In the course of their work experience, they both spent six months working in Cannes – Caroline at the Carlton and Ewan at the Martinez – which, together with family holidays at Port Grimaud, created an attachment to the part of France where they married and have lived for the past 16 years. ‘Two sons and a dog later, we’re still enjoying it and feel very much at home here, says Ewan.

Although their training had covered the whole spectrum of hotel activities, Ewan points out that starting and running a hotel requires a considerable initial investment: ‘Many ex-restaurateurs end up running chambres d’hôtes or a small hotel as a retirement scheme, although these require more dedication and experience than one imagines. Perhaps one day we will add a few rooms to the restaurant for those who have eaten too much and want to stay the night. Meanwhile, the restaurant occupies them fully enough from March to November and during the Christmas and New Year season.

The restaurant, which these days numbers politicians, film stars and royalty as well as ‘ordinary’ people amongst its clientele, is on the waterfront, with a terrace with its own moorings from those arriving by boat, and views over the village and canals of what is sometimes termed ‘the Venice of the Riviera’. It specialises in fresh line-caught fish and seafood (mareyeur is an old word for fishmonger) supplied by local fishermen. ‘Although these are mainly luxury products, we try to provide value for money, efficient service and a friendly atmosphere, as opposed to the stuffiness and impersonal approach of many other gastronomic restaurants.’

Currently the lunch menu costs €25, including wine and coffee, and other set menus are offered at €42 and €55, the latter including foie gras and lobster. There’s also, naturally enough, a range of plateaux de fruits de mer of varying contents. The Scutchers also cater for weddings, meetings, parties, conferences, etc., particularly out of season, and run a home delivery service in the area.

At the outset, the Scutchers bought an existing restaurant, with a different name and kind of business, and this had some influence on their funding. They found that French banks were cautious about lending to new businesses, even based on a solid business plan and the qualifications and knowledge of the area that went with them. ‘Buying an existing business gives the bank something to go on, basing the value on an average of turnover in the previous three years – although it doesn’t follow that the clientele will take to the new ownership.’ They benefited from the advice of a notaire and an accountant, whose role they regard as essential, ’amongst other things to help you through the administrative minefield. Word-of-mouth recommendation is a good way of finding these professionals.’ Language, happily, was not a problem, as both had taken their studies in French.

The Scutchers don’t follow the traditional format of husband as chef and wife running the front of the house (or vice versa). ‘Caroline looks after the administrative side, while I deal with the front of the house and service side, explains Ewan, ‘and we’re both very much present for our clients. Although we both had training as chefs, we confer this role to our chef de cuisine, Ricardo d’Elia. Our team is composed of a core of faithful staff members who have also been with us for many years. A full complement at the height of the season is 15 to 18 people. Retaining good staff in this industry isn’t easy, particularly in a seasonal resort like this, and the continuity that our regulars provide helps mutual recognition between clients and staff members.’

Looking back over the years, Ewan remembers ‘the ups and downs of running any small business: recent governmental measures concerning the 35-hour week, the transition to the euro, the prohibitive charges on salaries that make finding and employing qualified staff difficult at times. However, our ability to attract excellent, dedicated young people gives us hope for the future of our business at a time when standardisation and corporate dominance tend to overshadow the small family-run business. We’re closely linked to local producers of wines and foods, and this element must be preserved: it’s part of our culture and history.’

For anyone contemplating following in their footsteps, Ewan emphasises that ‘coming on holiday or even for a longer period to a place isn’t the same as living and working there. One should weigh up the pros and cons – about schools, taxes, the local culture, etc. – and get the maximum amount of information not only on the business concerned, but also on the area.

Times change and a town or village that was once busy may not always be for a number of reasons. Beach concessions aren’t automatically renewable on a yearly basis, for example, and one could risk losing one’s business without knowledge of this and other similar laws. Seasonal work can be misleading, as turnover won’t always be the same as in high season, although your fixed costs will be. The French notion of fonds de commerce or leasehold is not always easy for foreign potential buyers to grasp.

Having made your decision, do it for the right reasons, enjoy it, don’t give up, do the best you can and don’t look back!’

Note from the Editor:
Since this feature was first published in 2004, Ewan and his wife Caroline have recently come under fire concerning their outdoor terrace. While we have always made it a point to refrain from taking sides in any political or community incidents, we felt that this particular issue merited attention. We thus reproduce the press release we received from Arlo Gutherie, one of their campaigners, which explains their plight:

Michel Roux Joins Campaign To Save Riviera Restaurant, La Table du Mareyeur

World-famous chef, Michel Roux has joined a campaign to save La Table du Mareyeur, one of the most popular fish restaurants on the French Riviera.

The restaurant has been facing legal action to evict it from a large part of its waterside terrace in Port Grimaud. Proprietor Ewan Scutcher said: "We've been given the use of our terrace for 18 years, and the previous restaurant for 12 years before that. To lose it now would place our whole business under threat."

Monsieur Roux, himself owner of a 3 star Michelin restaurant in England, Vice-President of Relais & Chateaux and holder of the Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 1976 and the Order of the British Empire (OBE), said: "When I learned that the exceptional Ewan and Caroline Scutcher risk losing a part of the concession on their terrace, my blood turned cold!". 

Over 500 people, many of them residents of the village, have also signed an online petition to save the restaurant's terrace. One petitioner, Michael Brock expressed the feelings of many, saying: "La Table du Mareyeur is a truly wonderful establishment and a very important part of life in Port Grimaud. It would be a tragedy if anything happened to it. You have my full support for your cause to retain the concession and continue to use the wonderful outside terrace."

A first hearing has been held at the Tribune de St Tropez, with a ruling expected at the end of May.

Meantime, you can join the campaign by visiting www.mareyeur.com and adding your name to the petition.