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Sometimes we forget just how lucky we are to live in the South of France – for sure it is beautiful here but we have so much to see within a few hours’ drive!! Mel and I are rarely winkled away from the Mercantour – thanks to either tending guests for which we are entirely grateful, or tending the house and land which is sometimes a less attractive proposition!
We decided to take the opportunity to finally meet up with a couple of colleagues en route. We’ve had much chit chat with other keen bean small accommodation/holiday businesses in both the Italian Alps and the Ecrins. How great to actually get the chance to meet them!!
The amount of snow that we have experienced so far this year has been amazing, so we set off, ready for the worst - with snow tyres, chains, shovels and down jackets……and ….thank heavens we did.
We were delighted to be able to get to the west of Turin within four and a half hours. Driving past the incredible Mon Viso we headed up in search of Marla and Fabrizio in their mountain hide out deep in the Chisone valley.
Most people would be aware of the valley from the 2006 Winter Olympics when Sestrière and the surrounding areas buzzed with an influx of enthusiastic winter sports fans. Today the valley has the same sense of calm that we love here; coupled with the benefit of being just an hour or so from a major airport.
The feeling of being away from it all is heightened as you point the car up the 6km to Bella Baita, where your hosts welcome you like old friends. The house is warm, and cosy, and the food – out of this world!! Marla and Fabrizio are passionate ex pro chefs and offer full-on cookery demonstrations after which you can enjoy the fruits of your labours; all washed down with some splendid local wine. More astonishing is their ability to provide great food from postage stamp size kitchen – you’ll see…You will need to get out and work off some of the calories from your generous breakfast – but no worries here as there’s lots of great walking and climbing and so forth just outside the door.
Get there – if it’s good enough for one of Hollywood’s most enigmatic stars – it’s certainly good enough for the rest of us….but you’ll have to ask Marla to find out whom!!
Heading north, the weather closes in and, great timing, the car heating decides to pack in. Muffled up to beyond our ears we are very pleased to get to the Hotel Chemenaz in Les Contamines-Montjoie. If you like a 3* hotel with a friendly face to greet you – this is an excellent place to come to. As in much of the Chamonix area, many of the ski runs are for the expert only (mainly black!), but there is also an excellent flat area on which to try out cross country skiing, or to let some huskies take the strain.
It was lovely but we are ever the hill-billies, and were very pleased to get back into the “fridge” and to head away from the glamour of the Savoy.
There’s no disappointment in arriving in the Ecrins National Park, which is neatly sandwiched between the Savoy and the Mercantour, and very accessible from Marseilles. Agnès and Donald took immediate pity on their perished guests – and provided warmth, tea and good cheer in a flash.
Together they run La Combe Fleurie B&B, just outside the quaint village of St Bonnet. Guests are given the choice of enjoying a scrummy dinner cooked by Donald’s fair hands, or going out to a local restaurant. Among these is the l’Escoleta where vegetarians are spoilt rotten (so rare in France) with a delicious meal, using local and organic produce.
Agnès and Donald are very happy to suggest walks and activities in the area, or get in touch with the vivacious Sally Jackson who runs Undiscovered Alps (exactly what you get!) in the Champsaur Valley.Whatever you do, don’t miss the Scotch pancakes (or drop scones – depending on where you come from!). Yum yum – with local butter, honey and jam. Keen gardeners – ask about the sun dial and the apple orchards.
Thank you to all for making our trip great. We’re now back in the clouds in Berthemont, a few pounds heavier and looking forward to a busy Christmas.
Wishing everyone an excellent festive season – get away from the TV and out there among it..!! And yes – the car heating is now fixed!!
Spacebetween Liz Lord & Mel Jones – Berthemont les Bains
Bella Baita - Pinasca
La Chemenaz Hotel – Les Contamines Montjoie
La Combe Fleurie – St Bonnet
l’Escoleta Pisançon (near St Bonnet) - Telephone: 04 92 20 00 62
Sally Jackson : www.undiscoveredalps.com
Other accommodation suggestions:
Appartment in Les Contamines Montjoie
B&B in Les Houches – near Chamonix
