Provence is always pictured as a tranquil landscape of lavender fields and quaint villages, and visitors may be quite surprised at the wild scenery and the opportunities for adventure recreation just a few kilometres from the coastal tourist centres.
And no, they are not necessarily expert rock climbers, but participants in a wildly popular outdoor recreation, via ferrata. This brilliant new mountain sport, initiated in Italy, has been enthusiastically adopted by French tourist bodies and may now be pursued at about half a dozen crags throughout the Alpes Maritimes. Altogether, there are well over 100 prepared routes in France, and I’d love to be joining you on one this spring.
An excursion up a via ferrata is not rock climbing, though it takes place in a similarly precipitous setting. In fact, via ferrata is to climbing as riding a first bicycle with training wheels is to riding a Tour de France champion's machine. In other words, it requires none of the skill, commitment and experience required for climbing, though it gives a good deal of the same pleasure.
If you have tried ‘real’ climbing, you may enjoy a via ferrata in your declining years, as I do; if you enjoy a via ferrata you may be inspired to try rock climbing. Provence offers tremendous scope for both sports.
What is a via ferrata?
A suitable cliff is equipped with rungs and holds to facilitate climbing, and strong cables are provided alongside to the route so that any active person - not necessarily an experienced climber — may be self-protected and climb easily into a thrilling vertical playground. Any adventurous man or woman who loves hiking or 'velo tout terrain' cycling in the mountains will find the thrill offered by a via ferrata unforgettable.
In addition to simple face climbing, many via ferrata also offer acrobatic diversions such as wire monkey bridges or passerelles to cross. Routes are of varied standards of difficulty, and you should start on one suited to your fitness, strength, and confidence.
What equipment do I need?
Unlike other adventure pursuits, via ferrata is even available to the passing tourist travelling light, because all the simple equipment required may be inexpensively hired at the tourist office. You just need a sturdy pair of trainers. ‘Proper’ climbing shoes are not needed; on one occasion I tried them and found them to be very uncomfortable on the rungs.
The tourist office will fit you with a harness, and provide a double lanyard belaying system and safety helmet. Whatever the conditions when you set out, you would be well-advised to take a day pack with a water bottle and a light fibre pile or windproof top to protect you from the wind.
How do I get started?
Wherever you go the first time, say to the easy but thrilling via ferrata Les Demoiselles du Castagnet at Puget Théniers, you will need to first visit the Maison de Pays, the village tourist office. Incidentally I strongly recommend the Demoiselles, a very beautiful example in a great setting near Entrevaux. In addition to hiring you the gear, they will also give you a guide brochure with a map and topo — a crag photo marked with the route — and explain the various techniques you will need to use to safeguard yourself.
If you’ve done any climbing or scrambling you’ll be fine, but if you are a total novice you may wish to organise tuition from an experienced friend or from the paid guides available and handy to any via ferrata.
You’ll be out for about half a day, climbing pinnacles and crags, crossing any passerelles or monkey bridges, aiming for a summit. At particularly challenging sections of the routes, for example particularly steep sections, there are often easier alternatives that are well marked. These escape routes are labelled échappatoire, and old codgers like me take full advantage of them! Any active person prepared to take in the simple safety procedures will find it to be very safe, as the equipment is superb and the engineering work on the crags is done to a very high standard.
And finally, is a via ferrata suitable for children?
Sensible teenagers would be fine on most routes, and many venues offer short, simple practice climbs for smaller children and beginners.
The beautifully illustrated ‘Via ferrata, a complete guide to France’, by Chavy and Poulet, is available in English from Amazon.co.uk, and there are several excellent French via ferrata websites.
