AMB Cote d'Azur

As far as I know, none of the trendy ‘One Million Places To Be Seen In Before You Shuffle Off This Mortal Coil’ gives mention to Cabasson. This is a relief. Cabasson is a secret worth preserving.
A tiny cluster of pretty houses in a lush valley and overlooking the truly breathtaking coastline, Cabasson is one of the favoured starting points for many spectacular hikes - including the ‘Sentier Littoral’ (coastal path) which stretches for some 23 kms along this part of the Cote Varois. From Cabasson your view is of vineyards and chateaux, pine-clad hills, turquoise coves and white sand, the Fort du Bregancon and the Isles d’Or. I need to wax lyrical here: if there be Paradise on Earth, then this is it. Even the road through the hamlet is called ‘Road to the Ends of the Earth’.

The Cabasson hiking network goes in every direction – upwards, downwards, in circles, to lakes, along the coast, inland, through vineyards, across hilltops and through secret valleys. Barely a building in sight, the prettiest of forested landscapes and 360 degree views of the coastline and mountains. Buy yourself a good walking map of the area but don’t be afraid to ignore it as the mood takes you – the view of the sea is your navigator.

We have been ‘doing’ Cabasson over some time and in several stages. Our last effort was on a breezy Sunday afternoon, early in the season. Wondering if the world was quite ready for my white legs, I donned shorts and hiking boots and vaguely stuffed essentials into a back-pack. On this occasion we would be trying the coastal stretch between Cabasson and L’Estagnol – an easy stroll. Or so we thought. The driving time between Points A and B is about one minute. Hiking the coastal path (and then returning through the vineyards) between the same points takes four hours. It is worth every minute.

Starting at Cabasson beach, your first highlight is a terrific, up-close-and-personal view of the Fort du Bregancon. This is the President’s summer home - a magnificent island fortress, complete with its own causeway, protected waters, helicopter pad and Carla Bruni. The ‘Sentier Littoral’ heads in both directions at this point but, were you to head east, you would be prevented from getting much further as you approach the Fort. The pathway does, in fact, start again on the other side of the causeway and there are moves afoot to link the two next year – presumably without unduly disturbing Nicholas.

For now, if it’s windy, admire the epic flights of the kite-surfers over Cabasson bay and head west. The pathway is easy - sometimes sandy, sometimes rocky but always safe and rarely steep. (For the record, I have short (-ish) legs and big feet. This makes me kind of L-shaped and, in my opinion, aids hiking & balance. Nigel, au contraire, is tall and I-shaped with the odd wonky knee but, thankfully, he too found the going OK).

It would be easy to go into ‘superlative overdrive’ so I will just say that the scenery is staggeringly beautiful. And you can almost eat the smell of the pines. You have the sea and the island of Porquerolles to your left and the hills and vineyards to your right. There are tiny coves in varying degrees of turquoise with little harbours and stone jetties. Pine trees set into craggy rocks meet the sea. There are cream-coloured sandy beaches, inaccessible except by (small) boat or by (big) foot. There is a long stretch of nudist beach (unavoidable, so bear this in mind if you are taking Great Aunt Agatha or your teenage sons) and there is a ‘Robinson Crusoe’ beach complete with the remains of a driftwood wigwam. Here we had our so-called picnic (water & crackers) and watched the divers practising from a tethered dinghy. Next time, in honour of our surroundings, we will take a bottle of fizz, posh nibbles and something expensive from the Patisserie.

Onwards and upwards for even more sensational views – the Fort behind us, sailing boats below us and tiny islands out to sea; the Chateau du Bregancon in its enviable vineyard setting in the hills. And finally, our first sight of L’Estagnol – a perfect horse-shoe shaped cove and looking like a page torn out of a travel magazine. An exquisite little spot with safe bathing (if there are no jelly-fish), gentle warm breezes and (by now at any rate) the feeling that you have entered The Lost World. As we tottered into the parking area, we noticed a couple of atmospheric restaurants, set in the pines and overlooking the beach, and we wished we had brought money for a drink. Next time.

But sshhhh……. don’t tell anyone about Cabasson.


Facts:

Map: Carte de Randonnee ‘Le Lavandou’ 3446 ET

Parking in Cabasson can be tricky. There are four slots in the village itself, otherwise try and park at the foot of the hill (easy to find, on a sharp bend). If all else fails, you will have to park at the beach but this currently costs €8 per vehicle, per day (€4 after 17.30); pedestrians free; cyclists €1.

I am perhaps stating the obvious but do take hats, water, nibbles and suncream at the very least – the route is easy but there are no facilities once you have left the starting point.

Cabasson and L’Estagnol beaches (and Pellegrin further along the coast) have showers, toilets, picnic tables, cafes &/or full-blown restaurants. Parking fees are the same for all.

Restaurants at L’Estagnol: ‘Chez Richard’ and ‘L’Estagnol’. Open throughout the day but you must book in the evening (no evening car-parking charges with a reservation).

The quickest and easiest way back to Cabasson is along the ‘main’ road – deviating along the edge of the vineyards whenever possible.