AMB Cote d'Azur

I had of course seen this brown stone castle from afar numerous times, when taking the coastal drive from Fréjus to Cannes by way of La Napoule. To my mind this is one of the most stunning drives along the Cote d'Azur. While I enjoy the hairpin bends of the Grand and Moyenne Corniches and the exceptional views heralded at each turn, the coastal drive between Fréjus and La Napoule is priceless.

Here the road cuts through and tightly hugs the rugged Estérel coastline demanding total concentration from the driver. Passengers however are rewarded with unforgettable sights. When the sun ripples over them, the giant Estérel porphyry boulders turn deep ochre and it enhances the greens and purple veins that coarse through the rocks. This amazing colour is offset by the joyous play of light on a mesmerising blue Mediterranean Sea, itself studded with the white sails of sleek yachts, and as the road continues to snake its way further, hidden sandy coves suddenly sweep into view. It is all extremely breath-taking.

And so it was that on one such drive as we approached La Napoule, we felt we could no longer pass it by without stopping. As luck would have it, we found a parking place down by the harbour and walked back towards the Château, passing the sunbathers and swimmers enjoying the crystal clear waters and sandy beach; only later did we come to realise its importance.

Walking through the main gates we were at first pleasantly impressed and then in awe of it all, for it was yet again one of those moments: why hadn't we visited the Château sooner? As we slowly discovered the gardens, the views and the terrace, we felt the underlying creative force that permeated everything - even the very walls of the Château. Yet, while we looked and felt all this, we did not understand – this came much later. A return visit was called for. And return we did, within a week of our initial visit, but this time we took a tour of the Château and thus everything became much, much clearer. In all, we returned four times that summer, drawn like a pin to a magnet, fascinated by its history and the couple who had created it. Each time we left, it was with heavy heart, as if we were leaving a friend.

While I realise that nowadays the Château is a high table for the arts and aspiring painters as well as a most sought-after places for conferences, gala dinners and receptions, I'm taken by its once more humble need: to become the home of two very special, unusual and creative people whose sole purposes in life was to restore the Château to its former glory and dedicate themselves to Art.

The Château can be appreciated a number of different ways depending on how much time you have and on your interests. For example, it's quite possible to visit the Château for a spot of lunch or just to partake in afternoon tea and enjoy the sea views from the terrace while doing so. Alternatively, you may want to linger and stroll through the gardens, admiring the architecture and sculptures that are quite exceptional and intriguing. While the gardens hold their own fascination, without doubt it is a tour of the Château and viewing the Clew's final resting place that is quite moving. Once inside, you'll find yourself stepping back in time and following in the steps of a way of life that, I think, must have been utterly absorbing.

But let's begin at the beginning by entering through the Château's arched porch way. This is a busy area with people queuing up to pay their entrance fee (3.50 Euros), visiting the tiny gift shop to the left or the small cinema room to the right that shows a charming film of the life and times of the Clews. If it's possible, try to blank out the hustle and bustle around you, for this is the perfect spot to absorb the Château and its gardens and to let its magic take hold.

Tempting though it is, begin your journey of discovery by first visiting the gardens rather than heading straight down the long gravel Allen to the Courtyard and Château beyond. Skilfully designed by Marie Clews they remain, still today, as she created them: the geometry of a formal French garden softened by plants typical of English gardens of that period and intertwined with heady Mediterranean essences and colour. Separated by tall hedgerows, topiary and pencil-thin Tuscany fir trees are tranquil havens with cooling pools and fountains, enhanced by decorative stone urns, statues and sculptures. Set amongst these different garden areas, and depending upon the time of year you visit, the world of art greets you with exhibits of well known artists. When we visited, the extraordinary bronze sculptures by the Columbian artist Milthon were on display and blended so perfectly with their surroundings that I thought they had been there forever.

Everywhere you look, something catches your eye: a plant, a decorative ornament or feature or another charming haven. Viewing points are everywhere and are delicious moments to linger still further. One such marvellous view, through windowless arches, overlooks La Napoule's sandy beach and marina. Indeed, this portion of beach once belonged to the Clews and made up part of their property. Today it is called “Fishermen's Park” and was donated by Marie Clews to the fishermen of La Napoule in a gesture of gratitude. Many years earlier, some local fishermen had saved the life of the Clews' young son, Mancha, when an unexpected storm overpowered him and blew his tiny rowing-boat out to sea. When she learnt they had no sheltered place to store their nets or tie up their boats she designed and built a safe harbour for them by way of thank you. It is this beach that you pass when approaching the Château from the east.

As you continue your walk, you are bound to notice a recurring element: the Clews's monogram and an important part of their legacy. Evolved from the fusion of the signatures of each spouse it adorns everything they created both together or separately. When the “H” (Henry) and the “M” (Marie) are intertwined between two “C”'s (the Clews) it means a mutual collaboration. However, “H” or “M” alone indicates an individual contribution to that particular aspect of the Château, sculpture or design element. The three “M”'s on either side of the central monogram represent: “Mirth, Myth and Mystery” Henry's play at black humour and irony. Understanding the monogram goes a long way towards understanding their world.

The walk to the terrace and subsequent ramparts is truly delightful as glimpses of the sea and surrounding Mediterranean countryside come into view at every turn. But it is from the terrace, now arranged for lunch or afternoon tea with its teak furniture and green parasols, that the views are the most spectacular, as before you lies the bay of Théoule, enclosed by the Estérel mountain curving round to the west, Cannes to the east, and across the bay of La Napoule the Îsles des Lérins.

So exemplary has been the construction of the Château that it is difficult to imagine that the ramparts were never part of the original building. In fact it is a remarkable piece of engineering, for when Henry and Marie first bought the Château in June 1919 they simply did not exist. To fully enjoy the magnificent views of the coastline, the Clews conceived the bold scheme of adding a grand terrace garden running the full length of the seafront. To realize this massive project they relied on the genius of their Russian engineer who devised a miniature railway system to carry the enormous stones to each of the 15 majestic arches that support the terrace. A present-day walkway makes it possible to view this construction from below and which today links the two beaches that lie either side of the Château.

From the terrace you'll need to retrace your steps and return to the central allée that will take you to the main courtyard and the Château Now is a good time to explain more about this fascinating building, for what stands there so proudly today was not always so.