Asterisked answers, not necessarily fully clued, relate directly or indirectly to the title. Answers may be in English or French, often the choice being suggested in the clues. All accents are ignored.
ACROSS
1 Iron railway may get you to it (5)
4 Dismal eastern policeman has such letters (9)
9 Triumphs when core moves erratically (9)
10 Capital in parts of 1 across (5)
11 Kind of recording, this is a stimulant! (7)
13 Department with a scale problem? (6)
*15 Any good one should be able to offer this in clement evening openings (3)
*16 With 4 across might be described as exulted hole! (5,2,4)
*18 In which one might live in France (5,6)
19 You French object to our initiatives for a start! (3)
20 Looms for tractors (6)
22 Esteem ghost doubly first to last (7)
25 It takes enthusiasm and some asparagus to garnish sole adequately (5)
*26 Under canvas, taking one on purpose (9)
28 Diners set out but one disagrees (9)
29 Hop plenty with a bun! (5)
DOWN
1 Lo, dog filth obscures what might be illuminating (10)
2 Mediterranean shrub found in French street (3)
3 Vessel initially youthful as couple having twins! (5)
*4 One mixed in time to with make cheese (9)
5 Band a Russian chap might show (5)
6 Endure row before curtain (4,5)
*7 Bar on bedcover (4-7)
8 Cart makes the distance back (4)
*12 Thus goes Sue, staggering (5,6)
14 It pays such a man to stay away (10)
16 Flower of inferno ‘e carried (9)
17 Blair tore apart his dream of being this of Iraq (9)
21 Jonathan Speedbird? (5)
23 Gathering found in greasy nodule(5)
24 Four notes getting on (4)
*27 In which one might have dinner (3)
