AMB Cote d'Azur

Each time I visit Antibes I find myself more often than not "on tracks" as I tend to take the same itinerary into this attractive old town. I generally park close to Port Vauban so that I can walk past and admire the wonderful assortment of motor boats, yachts and mega-yachts with Fort Carré (16th century) set as a marvellous back drop.

I then stroll through the archway of the ancien port marine and into rue Aubernon and inevitably head towards Cours Masséna to enjoy the scents and colours of Antibes' covered farmers' market. Time permitting, I'll wander down the narrow streets brimming with charming Provençal boutiques, cafés and cosy restaurants or  along the coastal road, rampe des Saleurs, to admire the magnificent views towards Cap d'Antibes on one side and Villeneuve-Loubet and Nice airport in the distance on the other.

Returning to the car I retrace my steps but can't help but stop and admire the stunning views of the sea, the beautiful pristine luxury yachts and Fort Carré again. And it is there, at the back of this fort, that exists an astonishing monument - Le Poilu.

While the name "poilu" by and large means hairy in French, in this particular case the words "le Poilu" was the nick-name French soldiers were called during World War One.

The monument, measuring 22 metres in height, is the tallest War Memorial in France dedicated to victims of the First World War. Financed by a public fund in 1919, it was inaugurated on 8th July, 1927. Engraved on the four sides of the monument's base are the names of all 254 Antibois (people from Antibes) who were killed during this terrible war. The monument is also a poignant reminder that Antibes suffered the highest number of losses than any other town in France during this same war.

Local tradition has it that the classical sculptor, Henri Bouchard (Dijon 1875 - Paris 1960) and professor at the Beaux-Arts of Paris and member of this Institution in 1933, committed suicide when he realized he had placed the soldier's rifle on the wrong side. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.

As a byline we will be writing an in-depth article on Fort Carré later in the year but if you'd like to see the monument and visit the fort before then, follow avenue du 11-Novembre until you come to Antibes' football stadium. A litte further down the road, to your left, you'll see a fairly large car park if you happen to have driven there instead of walking (quite feasible). The monument is located between the sports field and the fort. While at first glance it may seem quite hard to reach the fort, it's actually fairly easy. Facing the fort, go to the left of the sports field and follow the path (and signs) around to the fort's entrance.

Fort Carré is in very good condition and can be visited in good weather.  Open all year round it is, however, closed on Mondays and public holidays, and also closed on Sundays except in July & August. Dogs are not welcome.