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Armed separatists and ecologists unite against fears of a paradise lost

In the hills above southern Corsica's paradise beaches, Vincente Cucchi sat stoking the log fire of her restored shepherd's cottage.

"There have been a lot of murders lately, a lot of score settling, it's becoming worse than Naples," she said. "But I'm not scared, you just have to carry on."

Cucchi, a Corsican mother in her forties, is leading an environmental crusade to protect the wild coastline around Bonifacio on the island's southern tip. She targets everyone from locals to Nicolas Sarkozy's Parisian friends, and goes to court to ban villas that illegally destroy virgin stretches of coast. Her latest victory was to scrap the proposed holiday home of Jacques Séguéla, the publicist who introduced France's president to Carla Bruni.

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Placette, St Paul de Vence

As you walk down Rue Grande towards Gate of Saint Michel (also known as Gate of Nice), you'll pass a very pretty small square on your left made up of tall narrow houses dating back to the Renaissance and 17th century. In the centre of the square you'll find a stone fountain from where water has flowed since 1611.

Past this stone fountain, on the right you'll find an arched stone lintel inscribed with the words "Par ce val". This sign may well be the entrance to the ancient Alziary de Roquefort home, where one of its family members would ride his horse up the main staircase.
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Mont Chevalier, Cannes

My discovery of the “Tour du Masque” (The Mask's Tower) on the climb up to Le Suquet was very unexpected. If the heavy studded door, rusty iron window grill, and rather sinister looking rusty brown iron face mask nailed to the arched lintel weren't troubling enough, the marble stone plaque with its mysterious words made the whole site feel very sinister.

At first I thought the name of the street, rue Mont Chevalier, was somehow linked to the tower and that the mask was a subtle way of alluding to the mysterious prisoner known as the Man in the Iron Masque. Now, in the light of new discoveries, I'm able to piece together (although not everything) the story of the tower and the history of Mont Chevalier.

Last Updated ( Tuesday, 16 December 2008 10:59 )

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Le Poilu, Antibes

Each time I visit Antibes I find myself more often than not "on tracks" as I tend to take the same itinerary into this attractive old town. I generally park close to Port Vauban so that I can walk past and admire the wonderful assortment of motor boats, yachts and mega-yachts with Fort Carré (16th century) set as a marvellous back drop.

I then stroll through the archway of the ancien port marine and into rue Aubernon and inevitably head towards Cours Masséna to enjoy the scents and colours of Antibes' covered farmers' market. Time permitting, I'll wander down the narrow streets brimming with charming Provençal boutiques, cafés and cosy restaurants or  along the coastal road, rampe des Saleurs, to admire the magnificent views towards Cap d'Antibes on one side and Villeneuve-Loubet and Nice airport in the distance on the other.
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Château de l'Aiguetta

The next time you plan on visiting the beautiful medieval perched village of Eze, do climb up to its magnificent Jardin Botanic to marvel at the absolutely stunning views of the Mediterranean. While there, take a moment to walk across to the other side. When you do you'll notice the enormous but very dilapidated Château de l'Aiguetta. This fascinating building is said to have been Walt Disney's inspiration for the castle in his animated film "Sleeping Beauty", following one of his stays in Eze.
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