Going loup'y?
The Great Outdoors - Getting away from it! An easy hit of Nature can be achieved by a visit to the Alpha wolf sanctuary just north of Saint-Martin Vésubie. Here you will breathe in the fantastic air and be guaranteed to eyeball the magnificent charges in the centre, currently gearing up for the annual mating season. We look forward to the next batch of cubs in May.
The evocative “scénovisions” draw you into a deeper understanding of the wolf and its’ role in the culture of the Alpes-Maritimes, after which the cold stare of these much maligned animals sends shivers down your spine.
A fabulous introduction for the quest to see a real live wolf in the vast expanse of the Mercantour National Park which spreads across the French Italian border.
Our last (alleged) wolf sightings were in September 07 when horse riding guests held back on sharing their viewing of wolves on the horse trail between the Mercantour and Sainte Agnès, believing it was a common sight!
However, note well that even Christian Lorenzetti, our favourite wolf expert guide, has never seen a wild wolf after 30 years or so on their trail. Despite this dearth of real life contact, Christian is always 100% Nature aware.
This particular day in February 08 we had decided to walk from the perched hamlet of Les Blancons above Belvédère in the Vésubie valley.
The non-sporty can just drink in the dramatic view at Les Blancons, which at 1200m is perfectly poised, looking north to the Mercantour massif and south to the sea.
The path leads inexorably up with a view down to the small hamlet of Berthemont-les-Bains where just about 20 souls live year round. It is the base of Spacebetween, the only British adventure company to be located in the Mercantour and also boasts great curative water (hence les Bains) which rises from the ground, deep in the heart of the valley. The baths themselves are rather primitive, but the water itself the real macoy.
In summer this leads to the Férisson vacherie where cattle graze in the summer months and great cheese can be bought by lovers of good and natural dairy produce. In the winter it is only the robust few who have the inclination to battle up the path on snow shoes, rewarded by a magnificent view as the valley finally opens out at the vacherie.
The path is littered with prints of all manner of four legged beasties. Initially it is easy to imagine that it is the patou – the well known white guardian of flocks – leaving their large pawed tracks. Moving further away from civilisation it is evident that it is only wild creatures roaming - the fox, the hare, the chamois and – yes – a real wild wolf.
Much inspection of scat ensues and the ever animated Christian is very excited by super clear and recent wolf track, just before coming across the rather macabre sight of a sheep carcass hanging from a tree. This is understood to be farmers, ever hopeful of government compensation, leaving their charges away from marauding carnivores.
In the magnificent bowl of the Férisson we are almost ready to see a fine young wolf trot out in front of us but are more concentrating on struggling with the beautiful but very sugary snow which saps our energy as snow shoes bite deep in to the crust.
Undeterred most of us pressed on to the Baisse, where thigh muscle effort is richly rewarded by the magnificent views down to the fine Madone de Fenestre valley, where there is nothing to be heard – at all.
Slithering down the 1000m is big fun – without the danger of falling and then slipping big time - there’s a long way to descend. En route downhill, the instinct is to press for home. In the wilderness however it never pays to take your eyes off the abundant evidence of our four legged friends.
Without (much) doubt, on the path south and down, a female wolf had relieved herself on our pathway, in between the time of our passing.
The hills will turn pink over Berthemont before we get back to the welcome view of our transport home. A great day, and we are keenly awaiting the next fall of snow to be out amongst it before any creature – two legged or four – has a chance to press their print in the virgin white.
Why wait a moment longer? Enjoy the GREAT outdoors!
Contact: Spacebetween
Berthemont les Bains
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Tel 04 93 03 48 57
Accommodation and inclusive holiday in the Mercantour and beyond.
Alpha, Le Temps du Loup
Le Boréon
06450 St Martin-Vésubie
Website: www.alpha-loup.com
Tel 04 93 023 369
An hour's drive north of Nice.
